gravel travel

The rain fell like monsoon rains throughout the night. There was no wind. Just persistent precipitation which greeted us in the morning with no intention of stopping. The teams of “open top” cars had secured them the previous evening as is the norm but they would have been glad they did or the cars would have been water filled. It was bad enough for the other teams as their cars too were put to the test for water proofing.

Denise had shown some signs of water getting in through the most unexpected areas and apertures. She was a little wet within.

We all gathered in the reception area of the hotel after breakfast to pick up the inevitable route amendments and sign off ready to start the rally in the allocated order.

We departed at 9.15 with a more positive vibe than how we felt the night before.

All went well and we located the markers as we navigated the route.

Until about an hour after, the cars came to a halt at a spot where a tree had fallen over the road.

A diversion was quickly put into place and the cars endeavoured to follow the new manually planned route and as we made our way around this little village we met rally cars intersecting each other all through this area, obviously lost. We too had travelled up dead end roads and returned only to meet others who were trying the same track. Must have been interesting for the locals to see with all these vehicles going around and around.

We began following our GPS to find the next weigh point to direct us to the first time check at Kangra. This station was well catered for coffee and food but due to time constraints, we were now under pressure to make all future PC and TC’s on time.

The course officials had however extended the time by 33 minutes to accommodate the problems experienced with the diversion.

We knew, from experience that with some unexpected events how it would affect our progress and ability to get to the next destination in time.

We wasted  little time after checking out to get underway and all went well. Denise worked hard and well although the tracks and roads were punishing.

The course took us through altitude changes, of 1000 meters up and down six times during the day. That is up three times and down three times.

The roads into the steep lush green countryside was punishing. The tracks due to the rain had broken the roads up badly.

Denise was a Trojan and she just kept going.

We didn’t push hard, just steady, as larger cars and more energetic drivers pushed past.

We made good way keeping a good position.

Then a regularity. At Manjeev’s Ridge. The test of timing within an unknown distance at a given average speed. We did ok. 5 seconds fast at the checkpoint. Not bad, for us anyway. This road was very broken and rough as it wound around very step drops and winding around the hills. It was only 12kms in distance but it seemed like 30..

Then continued onward to the last test of the day, getting in on time at the hotel in Manali. The roads became so rough and the traffic was running hot on this horrible road. The horn needed continuous sounding. The uphill traffic just oblivious to any danger as we edged so close to precipitous road edges. Passing on coming traffic became really dangerous. No local drivers really showed any concern or respect as they sped up and around blind bends hogging the road and expecting to be let through. Hundreds of cars almost nose to tail on a road that was broken. It was as if the movies had just been let out.

We were making really good progress, noting that as we descended from the hills that the rivers were running dangerously high. The black waters were running at speeds of 50-60kph. The torrent had waves of up to two meters as the water gushed over the boulders beneath.

As we descended further the rivers turned to unimaginable dirt black water flows. The towns through which they flowed were being washed out. And the rain was still falling.

We crossed a couple of large span bridges and briefly discussed how they stood up to this pressure, considering that they could fail.

Further down, the results of the damage by the torrent could be seen as the river level was tearing at the banks and taking with it trucks, buses and buildings into the raging water. Roads collapsing being literally devoured by the horrendous water flows.

We headed towards the next large bridge crossing and making good way when we saw a troop of rally cars led by Graham and Marina Goodwin followed by Lars and Annette Rolner, both in open touring cars returning. It was still raining.

They waved us down to advise that the bridge had been closed and could not be traversed. They suggested we follow them to find an alternative route to the hotel in Manali. Our final stop for the day.

We followed to return back over the large bridge we had recently crossed, picked up another couple of rally stragglers, formed a convoy and followed a path, behind Graham up north on the eastern side of this raging river.

This river was just huge and it looked treacherous. We followed it until nightfall until we could see it no longer. It was hard, tough going, on a secondary road that was mostly under construction or flood degradation. Through little villages who’s shopfronts were st streets edge. Missing pedestrians with their raised umbrellas and oncoming cars, and the cows, goats, horses and dogs.

It’s a lethal mix that kept all of us on our toes to be aware of the dangers as we sped through.

It was around a 50km diversion. On the roadside, in both town and country slips of rocks, some as big as houses were falling down onto the road. Torrents of water eroding the roads and potholes, invisible as to what lay beneath. Huge pots.

Then small bridges to cross that looked like they were ready to collapse.

And, some 2kms before our hotel destination a roadblock of cars that were not permitted to pass. The road had been washed out. We could not get to the hotel. It was isolated.

We all decided to find a hotel on the other side of the river.

We headed over a bridge that was still open and on the other side a kind gentleman suggested we follow him to a hotel that he considered suitable. It was.

This is The Himalayan. A fine establishment that was of an English turret design with large rooms. A fireplace in each room.

The owner welcomed us and we sat with a few drinks and nibbles in front of a blazing fire and tell tales of our experiences of the day. We contacted some of the other rally teams who had not yet found accommodation to join us, which they did. So in all we had 10 people at the fireside.

It was a really great evening. We had dinner, guess what for dinner? There was no drowning of sorrows.

But really nice and we retired at around 10pm dog tired.

Slept well and arose for breakfast which eventually was served at 9.30am.

What was going to happen? Contact with the ERA was sparse and although it was a planned day off anyway, we didn’t know what the plans would be. Still don’t.

We had heard that the access route for our planned entry into Nepal was snowed under so we would not be able to get through that avenue.

So currently we are in limbo. It’s still raining and is predicted to continue for the next two days.

I shall post another communique when we know more.

It rained heavily all night and in the morning it was still raining monsoon style.

Just getting into the car rendered one soaked to the skin.

We departed the hotel at 9.23 and quickly found the route and all went well.

Our first passage control stop was at Bharatgarh and we were in on plenty of time. But we quickly got back underway with the knowledge that complacency can be working against you.

Onward in the rain which was not improving was leaving Large water formations on the road surface and pot-holing to extreme extent.

The road became increasingly narrower, more winding and elevated. Into the area that we came to “conquer”.

These roads became steadily worse and potholes more frequent, deeper and larger.

We refilled with petrol, we don’t know what kind as there is only one type. Everyone uses this stuff. I’m sure it’s low quality.  It we didn’t want to run out.

Steve’s driving was great as was the navigation to this point. A pat on the back. But the journey is not finished until the end.

Whilst contemplating once more on the India driving style/habits, one can appreciate that the method is quite polite. At a toot, a car in front will move over or slow to let you pass.

Or if you wish to force your way forward in a jam they will let you in, all the time traffic is moving. It doesn’t stop unless direct to by stop lights. It really keeps everyone on their toes.

We had one regularity event coming up over rough road conditions all on degenerating tarmac surface. We also had to look out for cows, which are sacred. Hit them at your peril we were told.

The average regularity speed due to the condition was set at 25 km.

However, cows,  and turning lorries, just buggered it up. I don’t know the result of how we performed.

And of course people just meander all over the roads, also aiming to miss the surface water and potholes. So the entire stage is somewhat demanding and we need to be alert at all times. Motorbikes/scooters come at you from all sides with either two or three people aboard or carrying enormous loads. All over the place. Some motorbikes carry an umbrella to stop getting wet. A sight to see.

Typical shopping outlets on the main roads a bit like it was in Malaysia in the 1970’s

Just a tunnel enroute. In the middle of somewhere

So we followed instruction right up to approx 12 km from our destination with little time to get there within the time set. Plus 30 minutes grace without penalty.

Then a road diversion which meant that the route book was useless. Other than other rally members going in the same direction as us we were lost as far as how to get to the hotel we are staying in. Disaster.

We were surrounded on the narrow roads by rally cars all travelling in different directions.

None knew the correct route at that point.

We have been through places that no one knew existed around a mountain twice before being rescued by the hotel management who literally asked us to follow him in his car. Miles from where we should have been.

Obviously other rallyers had made the cut but we were stressed out. The car was hot and it was still raining heavily.

What a disappointing end to the day.

At the hotel we were asked to park some 500 meters away from the building and it was suggested that we just take a few clothes with us. Didn’t happen. Just so pleased to get in that we were prepared to slum it a little and wear the same clothes for two days.

Dinner at 7. Guess what.? Curry! Rice naan bread and chepati.

Now bed. Steve’s arms are falling off from the rugged road conditions and being on the road much longer than was expected.

A day that turned out less than expected but it’s in the path of leading us into Nepal and into the rough territory Character building!!!

Greveltravel and the Himalayan Challenge.

Steve and I decided to coincide a road trip to test and rattle the car with a Peking to Paris Kiwi anniversary, which we do each year.
This time it was hosted by Jock and Shirl Burridge if Nwlson in the South Island and we drove down from Mt Maunganui to Wellington and across the water to Picton to meet up with our colleagues in preparation for a three day run through some rugged SI countryside.
Denise performed very well on the trip down just eating up the road and just humming.
Steve has been working on the car for over twelve months with most every moving and operational piece having been reworked, remodelled or replaced.
Even then he would check it again for surety.
The plan would always be, the car will not breakdown on any rally! Period.
This shakedown run would identify any issue that did not show up during the rebuild.

Once on the road from Mt Maunganui heading to Wellington Denise ran like Steve had expected. A sunny windless morning, a most pleasant day.
Rotorua slipped past as did Taupo. Down the Desert Road and the smaller towns and stopping in Hunterville for brunch then into Wellington to catch the ferry.
At the terminal we ran into a couple of characters also on their way in classic cars to some other rallies. One was a friend of Bruce Washington the other Jim Hickey, the TV weatherman. Many stories and lots of laughs.
We arrived in Picton at about 8.30pm and headed for our rooms for the night.
The next day, wednesday we drove about the area to Blenheim and Renwick where Steve knew a car enthusiast to get some parts.
Had a good look around at the huge wine estates and forestry holdings. The whole area looked very prosperous without the roading issues in the North Island.

On Wednesday night it rained hard and in the morning to drive to breakfast the car was wet inside. How come? Both sides in the cockpit were wet especially the drivers side.
The windscreen was the suspect as it was around that area. We found the windscreen man who told us he couldn’t attend to the work for at least a week. Steve asked if he could buy some “gunk” and a gun to do it himself. Hi did. Solved the problem almost totally. But there was still some wAter getting in. The only other skin fitting on the car was the GPS module on the roof. A piece of tape over this did the trick. No more leaks.
A good result considering that had it not rained this would have been a major issue enroute somewhere during a rally.

We met the other participants of the reunion for diner that evening and enjoyed a few drinks and stories together.

DAY 1.
Picton to Havelock, Taylor’s Pass through Molesworth Station to Hanmer.

The run commenced at 8.45am to Havelock to have brunch and a prearranged meet up with Craig and Nicky Marshall who were on another rally.

On to the main run through to Molesworth via Taylor’s pass, a secondary road partially sealed but mostly a high quality gravel road.
Hardly any traffic and great scenery with great road rally conditions. A few shallow fords which made it interesting and as we went on the road quality worstened.
It was three hours later that we reached to station for lunch. A small sheep rangers hut where we sheltered from the drizzle.
Back on the now rough gravel road the country became more mountainous and the corrugations in the road bigger and more frequent. Denise road over these with ease as if she had been tuned for just such conditions. She performed very well and there were no further leaks inside.
A few larger fords over the road about 600mm deep with boulders as a base were traversed with relative ease although there was some water entry through the floor.
On to Hanmer some two and a half hours later at our accomodation for the night.
Denise did really well and I’m sure that Steve was pleased with her performance.

DAY 2.
Hanmer to Punakaiki via Springs Junction, Reefton, Blackball, Greymouth, Hokitika and Westport.

We departed Hanmer after refueling and headed for Reefton for Brunch.
Road was tarmac and a good road. Reefton is an old mining town and although it was “old time” it was most interesting to have a good look around and speak with some of the local characters.
We drove on to catch up with the team as Steve and I got involved with some of the characters at Reefton. We met up at Spring Junction then headed for Blackball, an old gold mining town.
Very interesting. Beautiful countryside. Lovely weather.
All of the roads on this leg were tarmac so we covered a lot of ground going for Greymouth on the west coast. Not much to do here so Bruce in his Dodge and us in Denise decided to go south to Hokitika. Had afternoon tea as a lightning storm came across the Tasman sea and it pelted down!

Back north through Greymouth and on to Punakaiki where we stopped off and walked around the tourists spot and the amazing pancake rocks. Spectacular!
All this time Denise provided us with a most comfortable ride, no issues, no rattles, just a steady travel humming at 95kms per hour. Everything working. Nelson via we Great ride.

We stayed at a small hotel in Punakaiki in cabins attached to a pub. A traditional country pub with pool table and country cut furniture made by the proprietor. Friendly company then dinner at a group table where we enjoyed some traditional pub food. Great stuff.

DAY 3.
Punakaiki to Nelson via Westport, Murchison, Lake Rotoroa and Motueka.

This run to Got is to Westport, a rather poorish town with a very long Main Street for breakfast. Lots of empty shops but interesting people. A good house here can be brought for $200k.
The road to Rotoroa was on gravel. Winding and with more fords and stunning countryside. No traffic here. It’s like a lost gem in the wilderness. Once there we had a quick look around the shores of the lake only to retreat speedily as the blood hungry sand flies attacked us. Steve was prepared with a can of spray, dealing to the little suckers inside the cabin.
Then on tarmac to the main road along the Buller river through winding roads amongst some spectacular country. Again few cars on the roads around here.
It was a long drive through country roads that Jock had specifically chosen to take us through. Gravel roads winding through more gentle country where hops, pine trees, and grape vines abounded.
What a productive and positive area Marlborough is. It’s a prosperous region of NZ which is lost on a lot of people that don’t travel. Great environ and has a most temperate climate.
We got into Nelson and checked into our rooms and prepared for our last dinner for this occasion. Jock had chosen a steak restaurant not far away where we enjoyed each other’s company for the final time and planned the next get together in a years time.

The next day we rose early to catch the ferry in Picton and head back home to the Mt.
All went well and we caught the 11.15 sailing.
Got to Wellington at 3.00pm.
Didn’t leave much time to get back to the Mt before dark.
We hit the road directly with an eta of 9.30pm. A rather ordinary drive though Steve had driven all the trip so it was a hard slog back. At Waiouru we were advised that the desert road was closed so we diverted through Ohakune and National Park putting us back an hour of travel. Darkness descended on us as we passed Lake Rotoira through Turangi to Taupo. Refuelled at Wairakei. An hour later Rotorua, then the last leg home to Mt Maunganui. 10.00pm. A little earlier than plan but pleased to be back home.
The entire trip was just so comfortable. Tiring but comfortable and I’m sure, save s few tweaks to the car, Steve would have been quietly happy with performance considering the hundreds of hours input.

A neat shakedown.
Denise should perform as expected on her Himalayan Challenge.