Author: Steve and Corgi

Iv’e had to re write this communique because I impetuously deleted it!

So here I go again.

This last day of the rally is now a formality, the travel to Agra to the Taj Mahal where it all ends. A 340km ride on a super highway, apparently the best in all India. A private road. 8 lanes.

So it turned out to be. The first time that what we were told was actually so for the entire rally. It was odd as normally we do not rally on good roads. But this is basically a “slip trip” a fill In day to get us into Agra and under the finish line banner.

But 340 k’s is still a long drive, to be completed by 1.00pm, especially if the start is at 9.00am. And Denise doesn’t do high speed.

It was required that we go through a passage control, fuel up and be at MTC in due time. Not too much fuel as the car cannot contain too much fuel in the shipping container home.

We worked it all out and hit the road.

All the other competitors tore past us in the early part of this trip as the road was good and sort of left Denise in the dust as she sped along at 114 k’s.

The road rolled on out before us, neat new concrete roads, on and on. There were few cars or trucks on this super highway. Amazing. Billions worth of roads yet no users.

Always hot and sticky with windows down we raced forward.

Steve was concerned not only to get in on time but to have sufficient fuel. At this speed Denise was using a lot more fuel and fuel stations were far and few between.

Then as Agra came close and we manoeuvred through the now crowded back roads keeping a close eye on both time and the fuel needle. It was close as suddenly the finish line and blow up banner appeared. Denise coughed whilst Steve cut the ignition and coasted the last few meters to be under the banner. In fact got a couple of bystanders to push.

Photos. Smiles, congratulations.

We were told that the arrival time was not crucial and it didn’t matter if we didn’t clock in?! Huh?

Immediately, after this we coasted down to the hotel a couple of hundred meters to the hotel car park to get our belongings out, and then take the cars to a loading base not far away, so that they could be delivered back to their respective home countries.

Denise wasn’t quite out of fuel so spluttered back up the road ready for transit.

Some time ago before we left Delhi, we had asked Mr Singh to get some more parts for Denise. A rack and pinion steering box, window rubbers, window trims and slides.

I had sent Mr Singh a whatsapp message to be at this hotel in Agra at 1.00pm on Thursday 21.

21?  Where did that come from. It was the 11th for gods sake.

So naturally he was not there.

Quick frantic phone calls to ask if he could bring the parts so that we could stow these in the car before the container closed.

He said he would. It would take 4 hours!

Some of the temples surrounding the Taj.

The famous tomb and marble configurations. The marble is a veneer over brick construction, if you want to know. Beautiful to behold!

We then headed into the bar for a well deserved drink. All the competitors slapping each other’s backs, congratulations!

It was abundantly noticeable that for the first time during this rally that competitors had dropped their guard. They became quite pally. Like the race is over, no need to treat you like a competitor anymore. Odd. Or maybe not?

This evening was prize giving night at the final dinner.

Most prepared themselves after long hot showers and cleaning up, to dress up in Indian style clothes. Maharajas. Turbans and special coats and headdress.

One couldn’t recognise these people anymore.

It was fun and we sat down at our tables to watch a film produced by the official photographer, Gerard Brown.

A montage of photos taken throughout the event showing the antics of various drivers and cars in sometime awkward situations. A reminder of some of the difficulties, hardships and funnier moments.

Then onto the prize giving.

Lots of jubilation to those that achieved greatness.

Steve and I were third in our class, and we were awarded a silver medal. We were actually 16th overall.

Not so much to be proud of but, there you are.

So a lovely meal. Much chatter over our experiences with other competitors and the evening wore on to a natural conclusion.

Shaking of hands and goodbyes as the next morning we would all be heading home, some quite early.

This has been the hardest and most tortuous rally that we have undertaken. The degree of difficulty, climatic conditions, road configuration and surface, or the lack of.

A true rally of endurance for car and drivers and navigators.

The highlights were the floods in Shimla and the flight to see Mt Everest in the Himalayas.

The most memorable was the conditions in Kathmandu. Appalling.

Thank you to those that followed our exploits and who made supporting comments. It was always good to get your messages.

Cheers. Signing off now, until the next time.

Steve and Corgi.

A new starting procedure was prepared, for the purpose of getting across the border without crowding the immigration and customs offices, on both sides.

Commencing at 6.30am the cars would leave at 6 minute intervals.

The competition was more or less over and crossing a border was a difficult task to undertake at anytime, let alone set a time to have it done.

We departed at 7.19am. Still cool and looking forward to some better roads, seeing that this is a transit day in essence.

But it was not to be. Time controls had been abandoned and changed to passage controls, just to ensure that all competitors were to get through the borders.

“Hot and sticky” were soon back again with windows open in an effort to keep cool.

It was a 470km day so with all the goings on over borders etc. it was going to be a looong day.

Last night we had to change the rear wheels, as the tyres had worn flat, over the past 3000 odd kms.

The fronts were down too but it shows the wear on roads like this. These tyres had served us on the P to P for nearly 13000kms without showing hardly any wear.

At the border it was bedlam. Chaos. A mess of cars trucks bikes tractors people motorbikes, all endeavouring to get through at once. The untuned orchestra of car horns interspersed with loud celebratory music through huge speakers mounted on tractors shattered the air.

The quest to find the respective offices of both the immigration and customs offices was on. These turned out to be little cubicles  with a small sign “Immigration” and Customs, not in the same building but in the same vicinity. On both sides of an indescribable border.

What a mess. Nearly two hours waiting for someone to stamp our passports etc.

Once done, back in the throng of everyway traffic, there was no one checking to see if we were in fact allowed through!

So again into the rage of traffic that is now India. Trucks backed up at the border wanting entry to Nepal for some 14 kms.

We still had 300kms to go.

The ERA had again discovered roadways that displayed the worst of conditions. Rather than have a good clean run into Lucknow, we had to endure more if the same despicable roads.

The last PC left us with 200kms to go.

The afternoon was coming to an early end due to the smoke/pollution engulfing the sun now a red dot in the sky.

Now the roads, freeways had been created for us. Long straight roads that permitted good speeds. But the truck traffic was very heavy. Here the trucks drive in the right hand lanes allowing passing by fast traffic on the “inside” lane.

Watching for cows and dogs and motorbikes at all times. Then darkness. Some vehicles with lights, some not, some full beam, some vehicles driving toward you on your side, without lights!

Wow. Concentration is paramount, then navigating at night when landmarks can’t be observed.

We followed the route book to the best possible way. Cannot get lost in this city at night.

We made destination without fault at 6.50pm.

Whacked!!!!!

Beautiful hotel, Vivanta by Taj.

Nice to see in the morning.  It was too late to see in the evening, though it was all lit up with fairy lights.

Bed, then Morning!! Suddenly.

Pokhara seemed like a quiet little settlement, not small and the hotel we stayed at was simple yet elegant.

Was good to have good beds to rest in. It was the first night in Nepal and the first time that beef was on the menu.

Cows aren’t as sacred here as in India.

The surprise scene from our hotel at Pokhara of the Himalayas. Made us optimistic to get to Kathmandu.

We had left Denise parked after the days’ work checking the normal bits and pieces.

Our horn had cut out and Steve spent a couple of hours finding why. A fuse? A loose wire? Need to be sure. The set button on the Monit trip meter also stopped working. Important to change the inter mileage when needed.

The horn is an essential tool here. Like it used to be in NZ 60 years ago when rounding corners on unsealed roads. Here the horn goes almost full time. Car drivers react to it like it’s a demand for space. They mostly react. The music from the multitude of horn tones is deafening, and continuous.

We stayed in the hotel for dinner, and it seems that it was the wise thing to do. The steak bars/eateries served what looked like steak but was “not very nice”. Disappointing for those that partook. Considering that the only cows that we see along the road are somewhat boney and wormey is it any wonder? There are no beef cattle farmed here.

Some drama with the Polish team members in the bar, who, were very friendly when you got to know them, took exception to being told by a Brit that they would be beaten in the next P to P. Lots of drink consumed and the Brit was put into the pool. Even the bar manager who tried to intervene was put into the pool.

Good fun and no hard feelings.

Then to bed.

Some awoke with weary eyes and hangovers but we were all ready to go again. You really need to be fully alert when driving on these roads!!!

Looking forward to the not too long distance to travel, 211kms. Heading to the reason why most of us took on this challenge.

Once again on the road it commenced with the juddering of the road surface, river stone roads pretending to be highways. Where there was seal it was broken and potholed. From then on we got the firm impression that this was going to be hard. 211kms in a day is not far and our destination time in was to be 5.56 pm. Something was afoot!

Well it was hard. The roads didn’t get better and the truck and motorbike traffic became heavier. All heading for the capital.

The days program had us stopping for a passage control at a place called Kurintar.

We were to have lunch here. It was a cable car tourist attraction that traversed some two kilometres up some very steep hills to the top, at which there was nothing to see. We had a passage control up there so it was mandatory. So back down. The ride was great. The day had been amended from a Time Control competition to a Passage Control situation and MYC, as competitors know it, was also downgraded to a PC.

The scenes from the cable car at Kurintar.

Checked out at the PC at the exit and back on the road.

This was the beginning of the “steps”, a road that never ceased to climb up the steep country for what turned out to be three hours of hard grind.

The trucks were nose to tail all the way with jams occurring every few k’s.

Passing was just a pot luck manoeuvre either inside or outside the rows upfront. The diesel fumes were choking.

Sometimes a truck would appear coming down toward us and we would squeeze between two nose to tail trucks going up. That’s the way they do it here. If you don’t drive like they do, you’d still be at the bottom of the hill. The car has not been damaged for those who wondered!

The heat, dust and fumes were overwhelming! It was just awful. Breathing became almost impossible and Steve wore a face mask to mitigate the problem. He coughed and spluttered all the time passing vehicles and, cursing.

The reader could honestly not imagine the scene.

Optimistically we were still looking forward to the mind-held destination, Kathmandu.

We both had impressions of what it would look like. Cool, clean with large snow laden mountains with the city at its feet.

When we arrived at the summit, the change of environment worsened. Instead of a serene city bounded by mountains it was a city packed with trucks cars and motor bikes travelling in all directions raising dust from the unkempt and unsealed road surfaces. It was a huge dust bowl.

The scene was horrific.

Although it was Saturday and the population was all about, the scene was chaotic. Most everyone wore masks. You could hardly see 100 meters ahead.

Navigation was now really important as taking a wrong turn here would be a disaster. It would be nigh impossible to make a u-turn, although in saying that, just turning would be the norm here. It takes time and no one would really care. Anything is possible, it’s the stress.

Our health was suffering badly. Coughing and spluttering was the norm now and we looked forward now to the sanctuary of the Hyatt Regency.

Expectations were that it may not be as good as imagined, but, it turned out to be a jewel set into beautiful grass and tree surrounds. The contrast could not have been greater. From such poverty in the streets to the luxury of this hotel.

We turned into the long driveway to the hotel proper and more or less abandoned the car at the door to get inside. Wow! What a trip!

How all of the cars arrive without suffering some sort of either mechanical or body damage is amazing.

The rooms at the hotel were very nice and the clean white cool sheets on the bed were a welcome sight.

A wholesome shower to rid the dust and grime from our bodies was welcome.

First, getting our clothes laundered. We’d been in them day after day for almost seven days. So that will be great.

Then a few drinks and dinner. Nobody stayed up long. The day had worn the most resilient teams down.

Denise is a dream to perform as she has.

Steve had prepared her for this trip to a standard that would allow the most strenuous imagined conditions. She battled these extreme conditions with alacrity.

What a girl. We depend on her solely to get us there. Walking or fixing her up on the roadside just isn’t an option. You would die on the process by asphyxiation! Truely, it’s that bad!

So now two days of r and r.

General maintenance to Denise, doing up the loose bits of anything that could have come loose and cleaning the filters. They were clogged with diesel and dust probably like our lungs.

We are supposed to fly over the Himalaya’s on Monday but cloud (or could it be dust?) is said to be in the way.

We will see.